Antelope Valley Microcomputer Users Group

AVMUG
Antelope Valley Microcomputer Users Group
Meeting Schedule - 7:00 p.m.
Third Wednesday of each month
At the Antelope Valley Senior Center
777 West Jackman Street
Lancaster CA. 93539-2942

HOW TO BUY A COMPUTER
by Ky Moffet, Offworld Press

There are a lot of factors to consider when buying a new computer. Here are the most common points.

It's all so confusing. Where do I start??

Determine what you will use it for and how much you want to spend
- consider both current and future needs
- set a budget -- in general, you get what you pay for!!
Business and personal use
- Office -- word processing, personal finance
- Internet -- web browsing, email, newsgroups, file downloads
- Image editing, simple (crop, resize, adjustments)
- Multimedia -- music, movies
Number-crunching
- Math-intensive -- database, spreadsheets, video editing
- Image editing, complex (filters, transformations)
- Multimedia -- high definition movies
Gaming
- 2D -- simulations, top-down adventures, simple graphics
- 3D -- first-person shooters, graphics-intensive

Determine what operating system you need:

Windows
- runs on almost any hardware, drivers usually available
- designed for average home and business users
- compatible with widest selection of commercial programs
Linux, BSD, Solaris, other UNIX-alikes
- runs on most hardware, but drivers are not always available
- primarily designed as a server and programmer's OS
- learning curve can be steep
- many "distributions" available, mostly free
- not natively compatible with most commercial programs
- most applications designed for linux are free

So there's more than one way to buy a new PC?

Name-brand "OEM" PCs
- HP/Compaq, Gateway/eMachine, Dell, Alienware, etc.
- limited models and options; little or no choice of brand and grade of components
- little or no ability to upgrade later, or upgrades are expensive
- motherboards are typically proprietary
  - proprietary: made to nonstandard specifications, not interchangeable with "off the shelf" parts, thus are costly to repair or replace
- motherboards often have slow bus, thus poor performance
  - bus: data path between memory, CPU, hard disk, etc.
- video is often onboard (built into the motherboard) and may share system memory
  - onboard video is not always swappable for better video card
  - onboard video is usually very low-end and short on memory
  - shared RAM can cause crashes
- warranty typically requires that whole machine be sent back to the factory for service; this may take several weeks, and usually involves wiping out all your data
- may not come with install CD for OS, only a "recovery CD" (or recovery partition) that when used may wipe out all your data
- factory OS install usually includes advertising from OEM’s partners, may try to force you to use partners' services
- tech support varies; large business contracts are treated well, but home users usually get poor support
- usually costs more than clone system of equivalent quality
- just buy it and plug it in, ready to go immediately
- some are only available by mail order (shipping costs can exceed $100)
White-box or "clone" PC
- your choice of components, from very cheap to the very best
- components are "off the shelf" -- interchangeable with any standard parts
- can be easily upgraded (add new or better components)
- better machine for the money than OEM system
- better performance than equivalent OEM system
- small or no shipping costs
- ready to use in a few hours to a couple days
- warranty and support depends on sources used

Looks like I'll get more for my money with a clone PC. So where do I find one?

Have a clone PC built to order by a local dealer
- research parts yourself, or trust dealer's expertise
- will build to your spec, or offer several options in prebuilt machines
- will perform in-shop burn-in test (hardware testing)
- OS and drivers can be installed and tested by dealer
- OS install CD is included with purchase -- you get the real thing
- only the OS is installed, no junk from partners
- carry-in warranty, usually no more than a few days turnaround
- parts needed for repairs are usually on-hand in the shop
- the better shops preserve your data when making repairs
- shop usually offers some or even complete tech support
Build a clone system yourself
- built completely to your needs and specifications
- research components yourself
  - support forums, google, recommendations by clone dealers
- locate and buy components
  - computer show, clone dealers, online sources (newegg.com, geeks.com, etc.)
- requires only simple tools (Philips screwdriver)
- assemble it yourself completely from scratch, or
  - buy a "barebones" system (usually includes case, motherboard, CPU, video card, sometimes memory) from a clone dealer; add your own hard disk, CD burner, DVD drive, etc.
- can re-use some parts salvaged from older or "dead" systems
- do your own burn-in test (optional, but recommended)
- use free utilities, or run a game demo for 48 hours
- buy and install OS yourself, exactly to your own preferences
- install drivers yourself
- no "whole system" warranty, but each component carries a warranty from its manufacturer (usually 1 to 5 years)
- component manufacturers usually offer some tech support for own products, or get answers from user-run forums
- defective parts can be replaced instantly, by yourself
- you won't delete your own data during repairs, will you?
- get that "I did it!" feeling, included free of charge!

I've decided to build it myself... I've got a screwdriver, what else do I need??

Case and Power Supply Unit (PSU)
- usually comes together as a unit, but can be purchased separately
- case can be plain or fancy, but should feel solid, be free of sharp edges, and be roomy enough to comfortably work inside it
- drive bays: minimum of four 3" and two 5", but total of 10 is better
- PSU must be "certified" for Pentium IV or Athlon CPUs
- PSU should have at least 300W sustained output
- PSU brand not necessarily a good guide to quality; look for one that feels "heavy" and has lots of connector cables
- poor quality PSU can cause lots of mystery problems!
Motherboard
- foundation of the entire system -- single most important part!
- look for name-brand with good track record for stability
- for maximum performance, lifespan, and upgradeability, get the best you can afford
- for budget system that will not be upgraded, good quality motherboard can avoid having "mystery problems", but doesn't need to be "high end"
- the more expansion slots, the better -- good motherboards usually have an AGP video slot plus at least 5 PCI slots (very recent boards may have some "PCI Express" slots)
- memory capacity -- minimum of 1 GB, more is better
- NO onboard video!! (it causes many problems!)
- should have all normal ports -- serial, parallel (printer), USB
- optionally may include ports for firewire, SCSI, infrared
CPU
- CPU type and speed must match motherboard specs
- retail boxed CPU has manufacturer warranty (1 to 5 years) and usually comes with retail heatsink and fan
- OEM (bulk) CPU usually only has dealer warranty (7 to 30 days) and you must buy heatsink/fan separately; cheaper
- Intel -- business, number crunching; better stability in Windows
- AMD -- 3D gaming, Linux; not as good for math-intensive work
  - motherboards designed for AMD CPUs usually have slower bus speed
Memory (RAM)
- type and speed must match motherboard and CPU specs
- start with at least 256mb, 512mb would be better even in budget PC
- can be added to later, don't need to buy it all at once
Hard Disk
- comes in IDE, SATA, and SCSI interfaces
- SCSI requires SCSI interface on motherboard, or add-on card (usually Adaptec) and SCSI cable
- common IDE and SATA sizes are 40, 60, 80, 120, 160, 200, and 250GB
- common brands are Western Digital, Seagate, Maxtor
- make sure motherboard supports size and type
- can be upgraded later (if motherboard supports it)
Floppy drive
- 1.44mb, 3.25" size is standard
CDROM, DVD, and CD/DVD writers
- best to have two drives, one reader and one writer
  - use reader for everyday, saves wear and tear on the writer
  - makes copying disks easier and faster
- most brands are really rebadged OEMs; most work fine for light everyday use (making data CDs, playing DVD videos, etc)
- some work better for copying "protected" disks (notably LiteOn and some Plextor and Pioneer models), or for overburning, check cdfreaks.com and other forums for current info
- most come with disk burning and DVD playing software, but not always a full version
Cables
- should be long enough to reach easily, but not so long that there's a wad of surplus cables stuffed into the case
- standard or round IDE cables for IDE HD and CD/DVD drives
- Serial ATA cable for SATA hard drive (if any)
- floppy cable for floppy drive
- audio cable from sound card to CD/DVD drive, for playing music CDs (usually included with drive)
- power lead splitters and extenders, as needed (one or two)
Audio
- can be onboard or add-on card
- onboard sound is usually adequate for system sounds and occasional music or movies, but not good enough for serious listeners; sometimes is only 16-bit (poorer sound)
- add-on cards are better for playing music or movies; should be 128-bit
- common onboard chips: ESS, Crystal, Yahama
- common add-on cards: Creative (Sound Blaster), Yamaha, Turtle Beach
- many have driver issues or conflicts, or will not work with DOS games; research before you buy!
Video
- AGP is now standard; very cheap systems may have PCI video
- AGP card and motherboard slot must match -- MHz and voltage
- AGP type is listed as 1x, 2x, 4x, etc.
- common chips (graphics CPU): ATI, NVidia, S3, Matrox
  - beware of poor quality no-name cards that nonetheless use namebrand chips
- stability varies, and depends greatly on driver quality
  - stable drivers: Matrox, S3, newer NVidia
  - driver issues: ATI, many older 3D cards
- for gaming:
  - fast GPU
  - 128mb or more of high-speed video memory
  - support for latest OpenGL and DirectX features
  - can also be used for any "business use"
  - may run hot and require its own fan
  - usually higher-priced
  - common chips: NVidia, 3Dfx, higher-end ATI models
- for business and most non-gaming uses:
  - standard GPU
  - 16 to 64mb of standard video memory
  - may not support newer OpenGL or DirectX features
  - usually lower-priced
  - common chips: budget ATI models, S3, Matrox
Ethernet (network card)
- usually on the motherboard, but may be add-on card
- standard speed is 100Mbit, but gigabit (1000Mbit) is available
- common chips: 3Com, RealTek, Intel
- common cards: 3Com, D-Link, NetGear, Linksys
- all work in Windows; some work in DOS, Linux, Netware
  - check for compatibility with non-Windows operating systems!
Modem
- hardware modem -- USRobotics high-end model only
  - works with any operating system
  - no driver required, just an INF file for system settings
  - can manually set IRQ and COM port
  - unlikely to have conflicts
  - works better with noisy phone line
- software modem, aka "WinModem" -- most other brands
  - only works with Windows, needs Windows driver
  - some may work in DOS or linux, but require a special driver
  - IRQ and COM port may be hardcoded (no ability to change it)
  - may have system conflicts
  - may not work well with noisy phone line

But there are so many options! How do I decide which components to buy??

Always start with a good motherboard, and sufficient RAM. Work out how much hard disk space you need, then double that figure. All add-on cards can be upgraded later, to the limit of the motherboard's capabilities, so are the best point to cut costs. But never skimp on motherboard or PSU -- doing so can hurt stability, and prevent you from upgrading later.

My choices would be something like this:

For business, personal, or budget system:
- low to midrange cost, geared toward stability
- case: mid-tower, solid sides (no windows), at least 6 drive bays, 400W PSU
- motherboard: Tyan, ASUS, Gigabyte, DFI, Abit, BioStar, or other midrange brand
  - Intel or VIA chipset, not SiS or PCChips
- CPU: Celeron, or "last year's model" of Pentium IV, or "last year's model" of AMD Athlon (AMD Duron not recommended)
- memory: minimum 256mb, or 512mb if possible
- video card: S3, Matrox
- audio: probably onboard
- ethernet: probably onboard
- hard disk: Western Digital, sized as needed, 3yr warranty model preferred
- DVD-ROM: LiteOn
- CDRW or DVD writer: LiteOn or Plextor
- floppy: Teac 1.44mb
- USRobotics hardware modem
- single boot of Windows 98 (or 98SE), Windows XP Pro (not Home), Ubuntu Linux, or Mandriva Linux
For gaming as the primary use:
- midrange to higher cost; geared toward maximum performance
- case: mid-tower, any style, 10 drive bays, 500W PSU
- motherboard: Tyan, ASUS, Gigabyte, or ABit for overclocking
  - with Intel or VIA chipset, not SiS or PCChips
- CPU: current AMD Athlon, or current Pentium IV
- memory: 1 GB, more if possible
- video card: NVidia's latest and greatest, with TV-out/video capture
- audio: current model Sound Blaster or Turtle Beach
- ethernet: gigabit; onboard, or any standard card
- hard disk: Western Digital, sized as needed, 3yr warranty model preferred, W.D. "Raptor" for best performance
- DVD-ROM: LiteOn
- CDRW or DVD writer: LiteOn, Plextor, or Pioneer
- floppy: Teac 1.44mb
- USRobotics hardware modem
- dual boot of Windows 98 (or 98SE) and Windows XP Pro
For number-crunching or mission-critical system:
- midrange to higher cost, geared first toward maximum stability, then to best performance
- case: mid-tower, solid sides (no windows), 10 drive bays, 500W PSU
- motherboard: Tyan or Gigabyte
  - with Intel chipset only
- CPU: Pentium IV or Xeon (not AMD)
- memory: 1 GB, more if possible
- video card: Matrox, S3, or NVidia
- audio: onboard or Sound Blaster
- ethernet: 100MBit or gigabit; onboard, or 3Com/D-Link/Netgear card
- hard disk: Western Digital, sized as needed, 3yr warranty model, or W.D. "Raptor" model if speed is essential; or Seagate if SCSI is desired
- DVD-ROM: LiteOn
- CDRW or DVD writer: LiteOn, Plextor, or Pioneer
- floppy: Teac 1.44mb
- USRobotics hardware modem
- dual boot of Windows 98 and Windows XP Pro, or BSD, or RedHat Linux

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